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Cut
The cut of a diamond refers to its proportions. Of the 4C's, the cut is
the aspect most directly influenced by man. The other three are dictated
by nature.
Quite often the cut of a diamond is confused with its shape. Diamonds
are cut into various shapes depending upon the original form of the
uncut diamond, which is referred to as “rough.” Whatever the shape, a
well-cut diamond is better able to reflect light.
A diamond's ability to reflect light determines its display of fire
and brilliance. Diamonds are usually cut with 58 facets, or separate
flat surfaces. These facets follow a mathematical formula and are placed
at precise angles in relation to each other. This relationship is
designed to maximize the amount of light reflected through the diamond
and to increase its beauty. |
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1. Well Cut- When a
diamond is cut to proper proportions, light is reflected from one facet
to another and then dispersed through the top of the stone. Within the
Well Cut standards are the MallDiamonds.com.com sub categories of Ideal,
Excellent, and Very Good. |
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Ideal-
This range is very strict and combines the best in brilliance and fire.
Technically, the head of the class.
Excellent- This range is also of great beauty yet slightly
more flexible regarding percentages. Many experts prefer the appearance
of this range to Ideal.
Very Good- This range is balanced
between precise proportions and price considerations. Viewed by many as
the best overall value in beauty and price.
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2.Deep Cut- When the cut of a diamond is too deep, some light
escapes through the opposite side of the pavilion.
3.Shallow Cut-
When the cut of a diamond is too shallow, light escapes through the
pavilion before it can be reflected.
The cut, or proportions, of a diamond is measured in percentages
relative to the diameter of its girdle. The girdle diameter of each
diamond is always considered 100%. Example: The girdle of a diamond
measures 10 millimeters (100%). The table measures 5.6 millimeters. The
total depth measurement is 6.1 millimeters. The diamond would be
described as having a table of 56% and a depth of 61%. The table and
depth percentages are the key to determining good proportions. |
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How Do I know if
a Diamond is cut well?
A well cut diamond is the secret to a beautiful and brilliant diamond.
Like beauty itself, the true meaning of “well cut” is often found in the
eye of the beholder. While you may prefer a particular set of
proportions, someone else might prefer slightly different proportions.
Personal preference, even among experts, will always be an issue in
defining the best cut. MallDiamonds.com.com has established three
sub-categories within well cut proportions to assist you in selecting
the diamond that is right for you. These categories established by our
experts are based upon decades of research and the standard practices of
gemological laboratories and diamond experts from around the world.
Listed in the charts below are the Depth and Table percentages for
each shape. The sample graphs shown here for rounds display the
relationship between Ideal, Excellent, and Very Good. These graphs would
look similar for all shapes so we have displayed only the actual
percentages for the others.
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Think of Ideal, Excellent and
Very Good as rings in a bull's eye. These classifications for cut
represent an acceptable range for that category. The ranges narrow as
you move toward Ideal at the center. Ideal has the narrowest range, with
Excellent slightly larger and Very Good the largest. All three of these
categories fall within the "well cut" classification. In many cases the
visual differences from one classification to the next are so small they
may be indiscernible to the naked eye. Science has produced
sophisticated machinery that can measure every aspect of a diamond’s
proportions. It is this precision that allows such strict standards to
be defined. These guidelines give you the ability to not only make a
selection regarding cut but to understand the underlying science upon
which it is based. In any case a brilliant and scintillating diamond is
ultimately the goal.
The Lowest score becomes the overall cut grade. In order to classify
each diamond with an overall cut grade the lowest assigned grade for any
individual characteristic is always used. For example: If the table
percentage falls within Ideal yet the depth percentage is in the Very
Good range, the diamond is classified as Very Good.
The proportions are not the same for every shape. Many of the diamond
shapes require their own guidelines in order to achieve maximum beauty.
Due to the mathematical differences inherent in different shapes, the
table and depth guidelines are formulated to maximize fire and
brilliance. Although the numbers may be different, the goal is the same:
a magnificent display that highlights the individuality and character of
each shape. |
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Girdle
The girdle is the outer edge of a diamond. It usually has a frosted
appearance. Many diamonds are also finished with a fully polished or
even a faceted girdle. This characteristic does not affect the value of
a diamond and is often more a reflection the diamond cutter's
preference. The girdle is rated in terms of thickness. Girdle size is
generally defined as either Extremely Thin, Very Thin, Thin, Medium,
Slightly Thick, Thick, Very Thick, or Extremely Thick. The girdle can
also be described as a range of these terms such as Thin to Thick. Avoid
the two Extremes. When purchasing a diamond, select one with a girdle
that is neither Extremely Thin nor Extremely Thick.
Culet
The culet is the bottom point of the diamond. In many cases this point
actually has a very small facet. The culet is referred to in terms that
relate to the presence or size of this facet. The culet is generally
graded as None or Pointed, Very Small, Small, Medium, Slightly Large,
Large, Very Large, and Extremely Large. Smaller is more desirable.
Polish
This characteristic refers to the finishing or final polishing of the
facets, or flat surfaces. Contrary to common belief, diamonds are ground
and polished, not chipped away, until they reach their final form. Each
facet should be carefully fashioned by the diamond cutter to shine and
be free from polishing imperfections. The polish of a diamond is
generally defined as either Poor, Fair, Good, Very Good, or Excellent.
When purchasing a diamond, select one with a polishing grade of Good or
above.
Symmetry
This characteristic refers to the alignment and positioning of the
facets, or flat surfaces. Each facet should be carefully positioned by
the diamond cutter in proper proportion and relationship to the other
facets. The alignment of each facet should be sharp and precise;
improperly joined facet junctions can make a diamond appear uneven. The
symmetry of a diamond is generally defined as either Poor, Fair, Good,
Very Good, or Excellent. When purchasing a diamond, select one with a
symmetry grade of Good or above.
Flourescence
This characteristic refers to the diamond’s ability to fluoresce under
ultraviolet light. When exposed to UV light, many diamonds will give off
a distinctive glowing blue coloration. Although fluorescence may be
displayed in various shades, blue is the most common in diamonds. The
fluorescence of a diamond is defined by its intensity as either None,
Faint, Medium, Strong, or Very Strong. Most of the time fluorescence
isn't an issue unless the intensity is Strong or Very Strong. In the
very high colors D, E, and F, Strong fluorescence is considered less
desirable. Ironically, in slightly lower colors of J and below, Strong
fluorescence is desirable.
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Color
The best color is no color. Diamonds allow light to be reflected and
dispersed as a rainbow of color. This light dispersion, or color flash,
has no effect on the technical grading of color. The absolute finest
colorless stone carries a D rating, descending through each letter of
the alphabet to Z, designating a diamond of light yellow, brown, or
gray. This body color may be caused by the presence of trace elements,
such as nitrogen, within the atomic framework of the carbon crystal.
These trace elements are so minute that they are scientifically measured
in parts per million (ppm). As the body color becomes more intense, the
grade for color descends the scale. These gradations are so minute and
precise that discerning a single grade (even by an expert) under less
than ideal laboratory conditions is extremely difficult. It is always
best to compare diamonds graded by either the Gemological Institute of
America (GIA) or the American Gem Society (AGS) for accurate color
grading. When directly comparing diamonds for color, most consumers are
unable to detect a difference unless they are at least two or three
color grades apart. We recommend selecting a diamond with a color grade
of K or better.
Fancy Color
It is often surprising to learn that diamonds also occur by rare
accidents of nature in shades of pink, blue, green, amber, or even red.
These rarely occurring colors are referred to as fancies and are
evaluated by a different set of color standards. These standards take
into consideration various factors such as hue and saturation. Fancy
colored diamonds are the most expensive because of their extreme rarity.
Some fancy colors can cost hundreds of thousands of dollars for diamonds
of one carat or less!
Flourescence
Fluorescence is not directly related to a diamond’s color. This separate
characteristic refers to the diamond’s ability to fluoresce under
ultraviolet (UV) light. Our sun emits some UV light, but it is usually
not great enough to detect fluorescence. The most common source of UV is
a black light. When exposed to UV light, many diamonds will give off a
distinctive glowing blue coloration. Although fluorescence may be
displayed in various colors, blue is the most common in diamonds. The
fluorescence of a diamond is defined by its intensity as either None,
Faint, Medium, Strong, or Very Strong. Although fluorescence is a
characteristic that can be measured, it is seldom an issue when
selecting a diamond.
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Clarity
Almost all diamonds contain very tiny natural birthmarks
known as inclusions. To determine a diamond's clarity, an expert views
it under 10 power magnification. In addition to internal inclusions,
surface irregularities are referred to as blemishes. These two
categories of imperfections-inclusions (internal) and blemishes
(external)-make up clarity.The fewer the imperfections, the rarer and
more valuable the diamond. Many inclusions are not discernable to the
naked eye and require magnification to become apparent. A
laboratory-certified clarity rating of SI2 represents the point at which
inclusions are technically not apparent to the average naked eye.
Contrary to popular belief, higher clarity does not always mean more
beautiful. If the inclusions are not visible to the naked eye, a higher
clarity does not really improve the appearance of a diamond but rather
the rarity and price. A higher clarity is more desirable and valuable,
but knowing that you have selected the right clarity for the right
reasons is most important. We recommend a clarity of SI2 or better.
Clarity is graded using a very precise and complex method of
evaluating the size, location, and visibility of inclusions. The
diagrams to the right show a top view of a round diamond. The
inclusions, shown in red, are an approximate sample for each clarity
rating. The plotted inclusions may not be actual size for display
purposes. Remember, the inclusions depicted in red are not visible to
the average naked eye until the I1-I3 clarities. Below is the technical
clarity scale with a description of each term. |
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Carat Weight
Most people compare carat weight to size. The larger the diamond the
more it weighs. The weight of a diamond is expressed in carats. The word
carat originated from the carob tree or Ceratonia siliqua. The tiny
seeds of this tree are well known for their uniformity and consistent
weight. Traditionally diamonds and gemstones were weighed against these
seeds until the system was standardized, and one carat was fixed at 0.2
grams. One carat is divided into 100 points. A diamond weighing one
quarter of a carat can also be described as weighing 25 points or 0.25
carats. Points are generally not used to describe weights over one
carat. Here are some examples of different weights for round diamonds
and their corresponding sizes. These may not be actual size due to your
monitor. The approximate girdle diameter is displayed in millimeters.
How Size Effects Rarity
The rarity of a diamond is greatly affected by its size. The rarity of a
1.00 carat diamond is much greater than twice that of a .50 carat.
Although it only weighs twice as much, the 1.00 carat is statistically
much more difficult (rare) to mine than the .50 carat. For an easy
comparison of price and size, see the table below. Prices are
approximate and based upon D Color, internally flawless, excellent cut. |
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| Carot Weight
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Diamond Price |
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.50 ct.  |
$4,000 |
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| .75 ct. |
$7,000 |
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| 1.00 ct. |
$17,000 |
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| 1.50 ct. |
$30,000 |
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| 2.00 ct. |
$55,000 |
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| 3.00 ct. |
$125,000 |
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| 5.00 ct. |
$300,000 |
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